At Delhi airport I was in good time to check-in, once again concerned that Jet Airways may have overbooked the flight to try to clear their backlog of stranded customers, but I needn't have worried. The check-in area was refreshingly organised after the madness of Kathmandu, and I had no trouble getting my ticket.
I must admit, I breathed a sigh of relief, as I am really looking forward to getting back to an organised and orderly country. I do enjoy the excitement of travel in unusual countries, but I think I am very tired now after 90 weeks, and in need of a well-deserved break.
Delhi airport has many frustrations. After having such a difficult time getting a visa, and getting into the country, they seem to want to make it even harder then to get out of the place. To get into the airport itself involved the whole turn-the-computer-on routine at the door to prove I had a flight booked. And then once checked-in, I tried to head outside to get a coffee and a sandwich. No chance! They won't let you back out. Another guy coming in laughed at my arguments with the gun-toting guard. "Another crazy rule they have just made up recently, for no particular or obvious reason," he told me.
Customs clearance involved many questions, including where I had stayed in India, and whether I needed a visa for the UK, as I was exiting the country on my Australian passport. I didn't particularly want to open the second-passport potential can-of-worms!
The security screening was a bit of a comedy too, with my bag being pulled aside. I was asked to remove all metal items from it! I have never had that happen before, but often get questioned about the harmonica in the top pocket - it must look unusual on the scanner. There are all sorts of cables and chargers in my bag, so I pulled a few random items out, and handed the bag back. "All metal items removed?" asked the security guard, with an Indian waggle of the head. "Just scan it, for goodness sake," I growled, getting one more small step closer to the end of my patience.
The final Indian amusement was that there is free internet at the airport. I looked for a power outlet for the computer, and was impressed to find a small laptop station with charger points. Things are looking up, I thought. Ah, but at the laptop station, the wi-fi signal is so weak as to be unusable. You have to sit elsewhere to pick up a good signal. Hmmm. London here I come!!
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Goal 84 - Taj Mahal.
Well, where do I start with this goal? What an unusual, and incredibly full day and a half. This has been one of the most trying and difficult goals to arrange, and I have had many problems to overcome, and ultimately the achievement was a long way from being satisfactory. But the experience of trying to make it happen was quite extraordinary.
Yesterday morning I caught a taxi at 6am to Kathmandu airport, arriving just before 7. My flight wasn't until 9.30, and I was hoping that by being early I might avoid the chaos that I had seen a couple of days earlier. There was already a huge line just to get into the airport, and at the door a few surly security officers were checking passports and tickets. Fortunately I had a paper print out of my ticket, otherwise you are required to get the laptop out and show them your confirmation email!
Inside I was one of the first in line for the Jet Airways check-in. I met one guy there who was on his third visit to the airport to try to get out, as every flight is so overbooked with passengers who have been delayed by the Icelandic volcano problems. Being early was looking like a good idea. I was eventually issued a seat number and a boarding pass.
The waiting room was packed, and incredibly unorganised, and at 9.30 there was still no sign of being able to board. Eventually we got on the plane, but were still on the tarmac at 11am, finally away over an hour and a half late, which meant I landed more than an hour late in Delhi.
Time in India was going to be incredibly tight! With only 24 hours available, public transport was never going to get me to Agra to see the Taj Mahal, and back to Delhi in time for my London flight, and I had no intention of missing that, as another flight would be hard to organise, and a further financial disaster. So, Avhi at Himalayan Encounters in Nepal had arranged for a car and driver to meet me at the airport, and whisk me straight to Agra. It certainly wasn't a cheap option, but was about the only way I was going to get to achieve my goal. My alternative was simply to sit around at the airport for a day and a night, and give up on the goal.
So as I emerged into the sweltering Delhi heat, I was met by Johari, who had a sign with my name on it, and we were on our way. Unfortunately the trip by car takes about five hours, and with the late arrival we only had about a 50:50 chance of getting to the Taj before closing time, depending upon the traffic.
The journey was quite an eye-opener! I had thought Kathmandu seemed chaotic, dirty and disorganised, but India has it beaten hands down! The roads are packed with cars, buses and trucks, and weaving through them are thousands of motorbikes, scooters and bicycles. Thrown into the mixture are hundreds of tuk-tuks coughing black fumes, rickshaws, tractors, and carts being pulled by horses, bulls, or camels. People walk through this speeding chaos to cross the road, and bus passengers climb up and down off bus roofs in the middle of busy intersections. Every second vehicle has a huge reminder painted on the back to use your horn, and every driver does so at every possible opportunity. It is so non-stop noisy!
Johari did his best in the crazy Indian traffic, and for a while we thought we might just make it, but we hit Agra pretty much at rush hour, and the sun was only about half an hour from setting. Eventually we had to admit that we weren't going to get in, and Johari suggested we to another point across the river, where we would have a wonderful view just as the sun was setting. I suggested that if we weren't going in, maybe a couple of beers might be in order, and we bought six monster bottles on the way.
The Taj Mahal was very impressive, even from a distance. It is huge, and the people visible across the river, outside the building gave the place some scale - it really is quite breath-taking. The view was only slightly marred by the razor-wire fence in front of us, barring us from getting any nearer.
As the sky darkened and an almost full moon rose, Johari pointed out a temple across the river, where bodies were being cremated, their ashes due to go into the holy river in front of us. There were three fires burning, and it was very atmospheric.
But we only had about 20 minutes before darkness fell, and I felt a little disappointed that I was achieving this goal in such a poor fashion. For possibly the first time on my travels, it felt a little as if I was simply coming to look at something, so I can tick it off as seen on a list. The feeling was strengthened by the fact that afterwards we simply turned around to head back to Delhi, another five-hour drive through chaotic traffic, this time seeming even more dangerous in the dark.
But it was on the journey back that I really began to appreciate the uniqueness of the whole experience. It had cooled a little, and we drove with the windows wide open. Everywhere was packed with people, and on the outskirts of Agra the poverty was very apparent, some people ovbiously just living under tarps by the roadside, or in tiny mud huts.
But everywhere there were street carts cooking food, and selling all sorts of everything. The smells were wonderful, and basking in the warm glow of a couple of big Indian beers, I hung my head out of the window, and tried to absorb the whole atmosphere. I laughed with Johari, telling him I felt like a dog must feel, head out of the window sniffing at all the unusual smells. I'm imagine my tongue maybe lolled out a bit too. I had only had two bags of crisps since the tiny breakfast on the plane from Nepal.
I had nowhere planned to stay for the night, and asked if Johari had any cheap hotel suggestions, somewhere that would still be open after midnight when we got back to Delhi. Otherwise it was back to the airport for a night on the floor there, I told him. No need, he replied. We had got on really well on the journey, and he had already spoken to his wife, and told her he was bringing a guest home for the night. We wouldn't be stopping for food either, dinner would be ready when we got to his house. I was very flattered.
Johari lives with his wife Indra, and two sons Pritesh and Nilesh, in a tiny one room house, which serves as bedroom, living room, dining room and kitchen all in one. There is a little bathroom too. Also visiting and staying the night was Johari's brother and his son too. Indra made us a fantastic meal of several different curries and sauces, along with hot chapattis, and we finished the remaining beers. My bed for the night was on a small sofa at the end of the bed, and seven of us slept scattered around the small room.
Indra made us omlette for breakfast, and I tried to find the words to express my thanks to her and Johari for their wonderful hospitality. I truly felt so honoured to be taken in by them, a complete stranger breezing through, and to be so well looked after.
Johari came with me first by rickshaw to the metro, and from there to the bus station, where he put me on the right bus for the airport. Once again I tried to express my gratitude, and we said our goodbyes.
Gazing out the window of the bus I thought long and hard about the previous 24 hours, and was so grateful that I had decided to make the journey. As it turned out, the day had little to do with visiting the last remaining seventh wonder that I hadn't yet seen. It was about meeting a new friend, and learning something of the true meaning of hospitality.
Yesterday morning I caught a taxi at 6am to Kathmandu airport, arriving just before 7. My flight wasn't until 9.30, and I was hoping that by being early I might avoid the chaos that I had seen a couple of days earlier. There was already a huge line just to get into the airport, and at the door a few surly security officers were checking passports and tickets. Fortunately I had a paper print out of my ticket, otherwise you are required to get the laptop out and show them your confirmation email!
Inside I was one of the first in line for the Jet Airways check-in. I met one guy there who was on his third visit to the airport to try to get out, as every flight is so overbooked with passengers who have been delayed by the Icelandic volcano problems. Being early was looking like a good idea. I was eventually issued a seat number and a boarding pass.
The waiting room was packed, and incredibly unorganised, and at 9.30 there was still no sign of being able to board. Eventually we got on the plane, but were still on the tarmac at 11am, finally away over an hour and a half late, which meant I landed more than an hour late in Delhi.
Time in India was going to be incredibly tight! With only 24 hours available, public transport was never going to get me to Agra to see the Taj Mahal, and back to Delhi in time for my London flight, and I had no intention of missing that, as another flight would be hard to organise, and a further financial disaster. So, Avhi at Himalayan Encounters in Nepal had arranged for a car and driver to meet me at the airport, and whisk me straight to Agra. It certainly wasn't a cheap option, but was about the only way I was going to get to achieve my goal. My alternative was simply to sit around at the airport for a day and a night, and give up on the goal.
So as I emerged into the sweltering Delhi heat, I was met by Johari, who had a sign with my name on it, and we were on our way. Unfortunately the trip by car takes about five hours, and with the late arrival we only had about a 50:50 chance of getting to the Taj before closing time, depending upon the traffic.
The journey was quite an eye-opener! I had thought Kathmandu seemed chaotic, dirty and disorganised, but India has it beaten hands down! The roads are packed with cars, buses and trucks, and weaving through them are thousands of motorbikes, scooters and bicycles. Thrown into the mixture are hundreds of tuk-tuks coughing black fumes, rickshaws, tractors, and carts being pulled by horses, bulls, or camels. People walk through this speeding chaos to cross the road, and bus passengers climb up and down off bus roofs in the middle of busy intersections. Every second vehicle has a huge reminder painted on the back to use your horn, and every driver does so at every possible opportunity. It is so non-stop noisy!
Johari did his best in the crazy Indian traffic, and for a while we thought we might just make it, but we hit Agra pretty much at rush hour, and the sun was only about half an hour from setting. Eventually we had to admit that we weren't going to get in, and Johari suggested we to another point across the river, where we would have a wonderful view just as the sun was setting. I suggested that if we weren't going in, maybe a couple of beers might be in order, and we bought six monster bottles on the way.
The Taj Mahal was very impressive, even from a distance. It is huge, and the people visible across the river, outside the building gave the place some scale - it really is quite breath-taking. The view was only slightly marred by the razor-wire fence in front of us, barring us from getting any nearer.
As the sky darkened and an almost full moon rose, Johari pointed out a temple across the river, where bodies were being cremated, their ashes due to go into the holy river in front of us. There were three fires burning, and it was very atmospheric.
But we only had about 20 minutes before darkness fell, and I felt a little disappointed that I was achieving this goal in such a poor fashion. For possibly the first time on my travels, it felt a little as if I was simply coming to look at something, so I can tick it off as seen on a list. The feeling was strengthened by the fact that afterwards we simply turned around to head back to Delhi, another five-hour drive through chaotic traffic, this time seeming even more dangerous in the dark.
But it was on the journey back that I really began to appreciate the uniqueness of the whole experience. It had cooled a little, and we drove with the windows wide open. Everywhere was packed with people, and on the outskirts of Agra the poverty was very apparent, some people ovbiously just living under tarps by the roadside, or in tiny mud huts.
But everywhere there were street carts cooking food, and selling all sorts of everything. The smells were wonderful, and basking in the warm glow of a couple of big Indian beers, I hung my head out of the window, and tried to absorb the whole atmosphere. I laughed with Johari, telling him I felt like a dog must feel, head out of the window sniffing at all the unusual smells. I'm imagine my tongue maybe lolled out a bit too. I had only had two bags of crisps since the tiny breakfast on the plane from Nepal.
I had nowhere planned to stay for the night, and asked if Johari had any cheap hotel suggestions, somewhere that would still be open after midnight when we got back to Delhi. Otherwise it was back to the airport for a night on the floor there, I told him. No need, he replied. We had got on really well on the journey, and he had already spoken to his wife, and told her he was bringing a guest home for the night. We wouldn't be stopping for food either, dinner would be ready when we got to his house. I was very flattered.
Johari lives with his wife Indra, and two sons Pritesh and Nilesh, in a tiny one room house, which serves as bedroom, living room, dining room and kitchen all in one. There is a little bathroom too. Also visiting and staying the night was Johari's brother and his son too. Indra made us a fantastic meal of several different curries and sauces, along with hot chapattis, and we finished the remaining beers. My bed for the night was on a small sofa at the end of the bed, and seven of us slept scattered around the small room.
Indra made us omlette for breakfast, and I tried to find the words to express my thanks to her and Johari for their wonderful hospitality. I truly felt so honoured to be taken in by them, a complete stranger breezing through, and to be so well looked after.
Johari came with me first by rickshaw to the metro, and from there to the bus station, where he put me on the right bus for the airport. Once again I tried to express my gratitude, and we said our goodbyes.
Gazing out the window of the bus I thought long and hard about the previous 24 hours, and was so grateful that I had decided to make the journey. As it turned out, the day had little to do with visiting the last remaining seventh wonder that I hadn't yet seen. It was about meeting a new friend, and learning something of the true meaning of hospitality.
Monday, April 26, 2010
Last day in Kathmandu - I hope!!
I have been feeling a bit like I imagine Martin Sheen's character, Captain Willard, may have felt in one of the scenes from classic Vietnam war movie "Apocalypse Now". For a while he is stuck for days in a hotel room in Saigon, "getting weaker, while Charlie crouches in the jungle, getting stronger". Well, I have been suffering the Kathmandu version of the same scene, watching my goals slip slowly out of sight, but without even the bottle of whiskey to help pass the time, only the occasional cup of coffee at the cafe round the corner!
But finally, things are starting to come together a little bit now. Shailu, manager here at Hotel Nana, has been wonderfully helpful, and introduced me on Sunday to an agent who could help expedite my Indian visa application. We filled in the forms, and first thing this morning I met the agent at the Indian Embassy. The crowds there were huge, and as is often the case at these places, chaos and confusion reigned!
My agent was also processing an application for a German guy, and we got chatting. Another travelling regular, he said, "I got a numbered ticket from the machine when I arrived, just in case!" He showed me his ticket, number 40! I laughed. "Me too," I said, and showed him my ticket, number 41. A little insurance is often wise in these situations. It might have only been about two hours until they got to our ticket numbers! Alot of people were going to have to wait longer than that!
However, our agent was as good as his word, and had ticket number 1, and only ten minutes after the scheduled opening time, the first ticket was called forward - that counts as being on time here in Nepal!
So, hopefully by 6pm this evening my visa will be delivered to the hotel. Back at the hotel before lunchtime, Shailu took me to confirm and pay for the flight he had reserved for me yesterday afternoon, and I now have my second ticket from Kathmandu to Delhi, having paid another $131 - my first ticket was non-refundable, of course!
So this is cutting things very fine, and only gives me 24 hours in India, but I spoke to the wonderfully helpful Avhi back at my trekking company Himalayan Encounters, and he rang a contact in Delhi, who is going to try to organise a car to take me from Delhi to Agra, visit the Taj Mahal, and then back to Delhi again before my flight to London.
It's going to be cutting it very fine to actually arrive at the Taj Mahal in time to get in, but hopefully I will have no issues getting back for my London flight - can't afford to miss that one, as there is still a large degree of travel chaos here after the Icelandic volcano issues earlier this month!
The whole journey is not going to be cheap, I don't imagine, but once again, I really have nobody to blame but myself. I just hope it is worth it!
For the fact that it may still even be possible for me to see the Taj Mahal on this trip, I owe a hugh debt of thanks to both Shailu and Avhi. Despite my issues here in Kathmandu, I still think it is a great place, and there are some wonderfully friendly and helpful people here.
But I still hope that I can escape finally tomorrow morning!!
But finally, things are starting to come together a little bit now. Shailu, manager here at Hotel Nana, has been wonderfully helpful, and introduced me on Sunday to an agent who could help expedite my Indian visa application. We filled in the forms, and first thing this morning I met the agent at the Indian Embassy. The crowds there were huge, and as is often the case at these places, chaos and confusion reigned!
My agent was also processing an application for a German guy, and we got chatting. Another travelling regular, he said, "I got a numbered ticket from the machine when I arrived, just in case!" He showed me his ticket, number 40! I laughed. "Me too," I said, and showed him my ticket, number 41. A little insurance is often wise in these situations. It might have only been about two hours until they got to our ticket numbers! Alot of people were going to have to wait longer than that!
However, our agent was as good as his word, and had ticket number 1, and only ten minutes after the scheduled opening time, the first ticket was called forward - that counts as being on time here in Nepal!
So, hopefully by 6pm this evening my visa will be delivered to the hotel. Back at the hotel before lunchtime, Shailu took me to confirm and pay for the flight he had reserved for me yesterday afternoon, and I now have my second ticket from Kathmandu to Delhi, having paid another $131 - my first ticket was non-refundable, of course!
So this is cutting things very fine, and only gives me 24 hours in India, but I spoke to the wonderfully helpful Avhi back at my trekking company Himalayan Encounters, and he rang a contact in Delhi, who is going to try to organise a car to take me from Delhi to Agra, visit the Taj Mahal, and then back to Delhi again before my flight to London.
It's going to be cutting it very fine to actually arrive at the Taj Mahal in time to get in, but hopefully I will have no issues getting back for my London flight - can't afford to miss that one, as there is still a large degree of travel chaos here after the Icelandic volcano issues earlier this month!
The whole journey is not going to be cheap, I don't imagine, but once again, I really have nobody to blame but myself. I just hope it is worth it!
For the fact that it may still even be possible for me to see the Taj Mahal on this trip, I owe a hugh debt of thanks to both Shailu and Avhi. Despite my issues here in Kathmandu, I still think it is a great place, and there are some wonderfully friendly and helpful people here.
But I still hope that I can escape finally tomorrow morning!!
Saturday, April 24, 2010
High peaks and low troughs.
After the literal and emotional high peaks reached in the past week, I discovered once again that when when the low points come, they are very low. I have often thought about how when travelling, life's emotions seem amplified, and have sometimes described it to people, suggesying that it is "like living life with the volume turned up to eleven!" The highs are wonderfully high, but the lows are pretty tough to take sometimes.
And once again today I found out how quickly things can go from being well planned, running smoothly on coutse, to all going horribly and disastrously wrong.
I have been in Kathmandu for over four days now, and while I have enjoyed relaxing with little to do, other than work on upcoming plans, I can think of much nicer places to be stuck with little to do. With a permanent supply of electricity I could have managed to do so much more, and would have welcomed the time to get on with writing some of the book, or even watching a few movies, but long periods without electric mean either sleeping, or wandering the noisy, chaotic streets. I do enjoy this, but have been in Kathmandu long enough, and feel ready to move on now.
I have been pretty tight with my money for these days, as I spent a little more on the trek that I originally budgeted for, and wanted to get through these final days, changing the least amount of extra money as possible.
So it was with a feeling of relief that I finally headed for the airport, just four more days of third-world chaos in India, before looking foward to the calm oasis of a couple of weeks in England.
I joined the line to check in at the Jet counter, and after half an hour, got to the front, only to be told, "No, you are booked on Jet Airways, that line over there. This line is for Jet flights."
I looked up at the board above me. "Right, so Jet and Jet Airways are two different companies?"
"Oh yes sir," I was happily told, and had to join the end of the most enormous check-in line I have ever seen. An hour later I made it to the front, and was asked "Where is your visa?" I pointed out my Nepal entry visa confidently, knowing I was leaving well inside the alloted 30 days. "No, your Indian visa, sir?"
"I'll just get that at the border," I answered hopefully, my heart beginning to sink. Apparently that wasn't possible. I suggested I would simply use my UK passport rather than my Austalian one - after all, India used to be part of the Empire - surely a British passport still has some advantages there?
Not at all, India, it would appear, requires that all visitors have a visa in advance. I was not going to be allowed on the plane at all. I tried expalining that I had an onward ticket from Delhi to London, and would simply transit through instead, hoping to resolve the issue on arrival there. But because my London ticket is booked for over four days away, I would be sent back to Kathmandu, as a transit departure has to be within 24 hours of arrival.
What could I do, I asked, and was told my only option was to go to the Indian Embassy here in Kathmandu and get a visa first. What about my flight leaving in a couple of hours? All I got was the address of the Jet Airways (not Jet!) office in Kathmandu, and an uncaring "Good luck!" All very reminiscent of the LAN airlines fiasco in South America.
Now I do appreciate that I have no one to blame but myself, and what is particularly frustrating is that I have had four empty days when I could so easily have resolved this. But in almost two years of travelling, only one other country has been awkward enough to require a visa sorted out at an embassy in advance - China. I have travelled through Europe, Asia, North America, South America and Africa, and in every place I have been, have either not needed a visa, or have paid the requisite amount of dollars, and simply got a visa at the border. Why would I expect India to be any different, especially with a British passport in my pocket?
With the last dregs of Nepali rupees in my pocket I negotiated with the owner of the dodgiest looking taxi outside the airport. At the Jet Airways (not Jet!) counter, I had been informed that the embassy would be open until 5pm today, and from 9 'til 12 tomorrow. In the taxi, as we sped through dirty back streets I still harboured visions of a quick visa issue, and a dash back to the airport just in time to catch my flight
At the embassy it was obvious that this was not how it was going to be. It doesn't open at all on Saturday or Sunday, so it will be almost two days until I can even get in there on Monday morning! This is going to make it extremely tight to get from Delhi to Agra to see the Taj Mahal, then back to Delhi to get my flight to London on Wednesday.
Despondently, I got the taxi to take me to the Jet Airways (not Jet!) offices. Ah, but of course, it was Saturday afternoon and they had just closed at 2pm. Completely at a loss, and with no Nepali cash at all on me, I got the taxi driver to take me back to Thamel, where I changed one of my last US$10 notes and paid him his 100 Rupees. With my bags I wandered back to my cheapie hotel, and booked back in for the night, unsure of what to do next.
I had a chat with the owner, who offered some helpful advice, but basically there is nothing at all I can do about a visa until Monday, and the process of issuing the visa can take some time. I have to sort out a new flight, but daren't do this until I have the visa in hand. Time is against me, and a goal as simple as seeing the Taj Mahal looks like it may now be slipping out of my reach.
I went out for a cup off coffee, and then back at the hotel, found the electricity off again, considered brushing my teeth and decided against it, and simply crawled into bed, my mind shying away from trying to resolve the problems, and closed my eyes, just wishing for the world to go away for a while!
And once again today I found out how quickly things can go from being well planned, running smoothly on coutse, to all going horribly and disastrously wrong.
I have been in Kathmandu for over four days now, and while I have enjoyed relaxing with little to do, other than work on upcoming plans, I can think of much nicer places to be stuck with little to do. With a permanent supply of electricity I could have managed to do so much more, and would have welcomed the time to get on with writing some of the book, or even watching a few movies, but long periods without electric mean either sleeping, or wandering the noisy, chaotic streets. I do enjoy this, but have been in Kathmandu long enough, and feel ready to move on now.
I have been pretty tight with my money for these days, as I spent a little more on the trek that I originally budgeted for, and wanted to get through these final days, changing the least amount of extra money as possible.
So it was with a feeling of relief that I finally headed for the airport, just four more days of third-world chaos in India, before looking foward to the calm oasis of a couple of weeks in England.
I joined the line to check in at the Jet counter, and after half an hour, got to the front, only to be told, "No, you are booked on Jet Airways, that line over there. This line is for Jet flights."
I looked up at the board above me. "Right, so Jet and Jet Airways are two different companies?"
"Oh yes sir," I was happily told, and had to join the end of the most enormous check-in line I have ever seen. An hour later I made it to the front, and was asked "Where is your visa?" I pointed out my Nepal entry visa confidently, knowing I was leaving well inside the alloted 30 days. "No, your Indian visa, sir?"
"I'll just get that at the border," I answered hopefully, my heart beginning to sink. Apparently that wasn't possible. I suggested I would simply use my UK passport rather than my Austalian one - after all, India used to be part of the Empire - surely a British passport still has some advantages there?
Not at all, India, it would appear, requires that all visitors have a visa in advance. I was not going to be allowed on the plane at all. I tried expalining that I had an onward ticket from Delhi to London, and would simply transit through instead, hoping to resolve the issue on arrival there. But because my London ticket is booked for over four days away, I would be sent back to Kathmandu, as a transit departure has to be within 24 hours of arrival.
What could I do, I asked, and was told my only option was to go to the Indian Embassy here in Kathmandu and get a visa first. What about my flight leaving in a couple of hours? All I got was the address of the Jet Airways (not Jet!) office in Kathmandu, and an uncaring "Good luck!" All very reminiscent of the LAN airlines fiasco in South America.
Now I do appreciate that I have no one to blame but myself, and what is particularly frustrating is that I have had four empty days when I could so easily have resolved this. But in almost two years of travelling, only one other country has been awkward enough to require a visa sorted out at an embassy in advance - China. I have travelled through Europe, Asia, North America, South America and Africa, and in every place I have been, have either not needed a visa, or have paid the requisite amount of dollars, and simply got a visa at the border. Why would I expect India to be any different, especially with a British passport in my pocket?
With the last dregs of Nepali rupees in my pocket I negotiated with the owner of the dodgiest looking taxi outside the airport. At the Jet Airways (not Jet!) counter, I had been informed that the embassy would be open until 5pm today, and from 9 'til 12 tomorrow. In the taxi, as we sped through dirty back streets I still harboured visions of a quick visa issue, and a dash back to the airport just in time to catch my flight
At the embassy it was obvious that this was not how it was going to be. It doesn't open at all on Saturday or Sunday, so it will be almost two days until I can even get in there on Monday morning! This is going to make it extremely tight to get from Delhi to Agra to see the Taj Mahal, then back to Delhi to get my flight to London on Wednesday.
Despondently, I got the taxi to take me to the Jet Airways (not Jet!) offices. Ah, but of course, it was Saturday afternoon and they had just closed at 2pm. Completely at a loss, and with no Nepali cash at all on me, I got the taxi driver to take me back to Thamel, where I changed one of my last US$10 notes and paid him his 100 Rupees. With my bags I wandered back to my cheapie hotel, and booked back in for the night, unsure of what to do next.
I had a chat with the owner, who offered some helpful advice, but basically there is nothing at all I can do about a visa until Monday, and the process of issuing the visa can take some time. I have to sort out a new flight, but daren't do this until I have the visa in hand. Time is against me, and a goal as simple as seeing the Taj Mahal looks like it may now be slipping out of my reach.
I went out for a cup off coffee, and then back at the hotel, found the electricity off again, considered brushing my teeth and decided against it, and simply crawled into bed, my mind shying away from trying to resolve the problems, and closed my eyes, just wishing for the world to go away for a while!
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Everest video, picture, map, and news.
I've had plenty of time on my hands here in Kathmandu, but not all of it has been completely productive, due to the dual challenges of feeling a bit under-the-weather with a post-Everest cold, and the electricity-supply frustrations here in the city.
I have spent alot of time lounging around in bed, eating my leftover Mountain Man Trail Mix, dried fruit, and sultanas as a semi-luxurious breakfast-in-bed. I keep having to sweep the bed out though, as any spilled granola mix has a particularly gravelly texture, and isn't too comfortable to lie around in! I have ventured out every now and then for a coffee, to sort out my laundry, get a haircut, or do a bit of shopping.
But I have finally managed to get around to editing the few random video clips taken from the two-week long Everest Trek. It's taken me a day or two to do this, as I have had alot of other stuff to catch up with on the computer, and only limited time with access to electricity! When the electric goes off, it's back to the book with the head torch until power comes back on, sometimes as much as six hours later.
There is a timetable for electricity black-outs, but like many other things here in Nepal, it just seems to be a vague guideline rather than reliable information. I've learned my lesson, and keep the laptop connected to the charger all the time that the electric is on, so at least I have a full charge when the power suddenly goes off!
I didn't bother with video too much on the trip, but I'm pleased with the 360 degree views of Base Camp, and the alarming take-off from Lukla airport.
I tended to concentrate more on photos, and took hundreds of them. I am using a couple of the pix I took as part of my charity fundraising goal, more details here. My particular favourite is the view from Gokyo Ri summit with the tiny town of Gokyo far below by the lake in the snow, with the huge glacier behind it.
To help out with my fundraising goal you can make a contribution and receive a signed copy of this print, or any other you would like, by visiting the Fundraising page here:-
Bowel Cancer Fundraising Goal
The music on the video is called "Om Mani Padme Hum" by Tibetan Incantations. The original piece of music is over 24 minutes long, and is extremely repetitive. In Namche Bazar it plays endlessly on repeat from every second shop doorway, and I've heard it in several shops here in Kathmandu too - it's like an awful, endless Tibetan version of Chinese water torture!! It is impossible to escape from it, and this music will be forever connected in my mind to this trip.
For interest, here's great 360 degree view from Everest summit I found on the internet:-
Panoramas.dk - amazing 360 views of many other places too.
Below is a animation I made of our route, based upon the original map from Himalayan Encounters, but altered to reflect our somewat speedier journey!
Finally, here are a couple of recent news stories on Everest, thanks to Lorna for the links:
Spring cleaning at Mount Everest's death zone
13-Year-Old Attempts To Climb Everest
Quebec anniversary flag can't reach Everest summit
I have spent alot of time lounging around in bed, eating my leftover Mountain Man Trail Mix, dried fruit, and sultanas as a semi-luxurious breakfast-in-bed. I keep having to sweep the bed out though, as any spilled granola mix has a particularly gravelly texture, and isn't too comfortable to lie around in! I have ventured out every now and then for a coffee, to sort out my laundry, get a haircut, or do a bit of shopping.
But I have finally managed to get around to editing the few random video clips taken from the two-week long Everest Trek. It's taken me a day or two to do this, as I have had alot of other stuff to catch up with on the computer, and only limited time with access to electricity! When the electric goes off, it's back to the book with the head torch until power comes back on, sometimes as much as six hours later.
There is a timetable for electricity black-outs, but like many other things here in Nepal, it just seems to be a vague guideline rather than reliable information. I've learned my lesson, and keep the laptop connected to the charger all the time that the electric is on, so at least I have a full charge when the power suddenly goes off!
I didn't bother with video too much on the trip, but I'm pleased with the 360 degree views of Base Camp, and the alarming take-off from Lukla airport.
I tended to concentrate more on photos, and took hundreds of them. I am using a couple of the pix I took as part of my charity fundraising goal, more details here. My particular favourite is the view from Gokyo Ri summit with the tiny town of Gokyo far below by the lake in the snow, with the huge glacier behind it.
To help out with my fundraising goal you can make a contribution and receive a signed copy of this print, or any other you would like, by visiting the Fundraising page here:-
Bowel Cancer Fundraising Goal
The music on the video is called "Om Mani Padme Hum" by Tibetan Incantations. The original piece of music is over 24 minutes long, and is extremely repetitive. In Namche Bazar it plays endlessly on repeat from every second shop doorway, and I've heard it in several shops here in Kathmandu too - it's like an awful, endless Tibetan version of Chinese water torture!! It is impossible to escape from it, and this music will be forever connected in my mind to this trip.
For interest, here's great 360 degree view from Everest summit I found on the internet:-
Panoramas.dk - amazing 360 views of many other places too.
Below is a animation I made of our route, based upon the original map from Himalayan Encounters, but altered to reflect our somewat speedier journey!
Finally, here are a couple of recent news stories on Everest, thanks to Lorna for the links:
Spring cleaning at Mount Everest's death zone
13-Year-Old Attempts To Climb Everest
Quebec anniversary flag can't reach Everest summit
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Return to Kathmandu.
Day 12 - Namche Bazar (11,286 ft) - Phakding (8,563 ft) - Lukla (9,317 ft)
The last day of walking was a bit of a long haul, taking around seven hours, including a long lunch break at Phakding. We had caught up again with the large group that we have met several times on our journey, and all had lunch together. After lunch it was a long uphill trudge, and we finally arrived in Lukla at around 3pm.
The track was so much busier than we had been used to higher up in the mountains, and the bridges were often bottle-necked, with well laden porters and yak all trying to cross at once!
I feel a little bit sad that the whole incredible adventure is almost over, but my legs are incredibly relieved that the most walking they have to do tomorrow is from the hotel to the airport for the flight back to Kathmandu!
Day 13 - Lukla - Kathmandu
After a few celebratory beers the night before, getting up was a bit of a struggle, but it was important to be at Lukla airport in reasonable time , as flights only tend to operate in the morning, when the weather is clear, and getting a seat back to Kathmandu can be a bit of a lottery if it's busy. It was going to be even more tricky, as we were trying to fly back four days ahead of our scheduled departure date.
But with some help from Deepak it was all sorted out, and by 9am we had negotiated our way through the entertaining chaos of Lukla airport, and were on another Twin Otter, hurtling down the steep runway, and soaring into the mountains. The take-off is quite alarming, as the runway slopes down steeply, and just as the plane becomes airborne, the ground falls away to the valley floor far below.
I do have some video of the take-off, as well as of some of the mountains, so will see if I can get it edited together soon.
I'm now back in my cheapie hotel in Kathmandu, where internet access is free, but provision of an electricity supply is sporadic at best. I have a few spare days now, and plan to catch up on email, and get as much planning done as possible for the next few weeks.
I seem to be developing a bit of a cold at the moment, which is unsurprising, considering the amount of time I have spent in cold conditions, surrounded by coughing, sneezing, sniffing companions. I just consider myself extremely lucky not to have had any of the stomach upsets that all trekkers are "guaranteed" to have at some point during their trip. I reckon that after all my travelling, and easy-going attitude to street food, I now have innards of cast-iron. I certainly hope so, it's off to India next, ultimate test of the digestive system!!
The last day of walking was a bit of a long haul, taking around seven hours, including a long lunch break at Phakding. We had caught up again with the large group that we have met several times on our journey, and all had lunch together. After lunch it was a long uphill trudge, and we finally arrived in Lukla at around 3pm.
The track was so much busier than we had been used to higher up in the mountains, and the bridges were often bottle-necked, with well laden porters and yak all trying to cross at once!
I feel a little bit sad that the whole incredible adventure is almost over, but my legs are incredibly relieved that the most walking they have to do tomorrow is from the hotel to the airport for the flight back to Kathmandu!
Day 13 - Lukla - Kathmandu
After a few celebratory beers the night before, getting up was a bit of a struggle, but it was important to be at Lukla airport in reasonable time , as flights only tend to operate in the morning, when the weather is clear, and getting a seat back to Kathmandu can be a bit of a lottery if it's busy. It was going to be even more tricky, as we were trying to fly back four days ahead of our scheduled departure date.
But with some help from Deepak it was all sorted out, and by 9am we had negotiated our way through the entertaining chaos of Lukla airport, and were on another Twin Otter, hurtling down the steep runway, and soaring into the mountains. The take-off is quite alarming, as the runway slopes down steeply, and just as the plane becomes airborne, the ground falls away to the valley floor far below.
I do have some video of the take-off, as well as of some of the mountains, so will see if I can get it edited together soon.
I'm now back in my cheapie hotel in Kathmandu, where internet access is free, but provision of an electricity supply is sporadic at best. I have a few spare days now, and plan to catch up on email, and get as much planning done as possible for the next few weeks.
I seem to be developing a bit of a cold at the moment, which is unsurprising, considering the amount of time I have spent in cold conditions, surrounded by coughing, sneezing, sniffing companions. I just consider myself extremely lucky not to have had any of the stomach upsets that all trekkers are "guaranteed" to have at some point during their trip. I reckon that after all my travelling, and easy-going attitude to street food, I now have innards of cast-iron. I certainly hope so, it's off to India next, ultimate test of the digestive system!!
Sunday, April 18, 2010
Heading back down to Namche.
Day 10 - Gorak Shep (16,863 ft) - Kala Pathar (18,208 ft) - Orsho (13,547 ft)
Surya woke us at ten past four in the morning, and we were out and climbing by 4.45am, just as it was beginning to get light. For Surya and I, this was our second slog up Kala Pathar in less than 24 hours. Once again we managed a steady pace, and passed a few people who had started before us.
About half way up, Henry stopped to take some photos, and I continued my steady plod, increacing my pace as I approached the summit, keen to get there before the sun appeared from behind Everest. I climbed the last twenty minutes or so as hard as I could, puffing and panting hard in the thin air above 18,000 feet. I must have been going pretty well, as I had at least ten minutes on my own on the summit before anyone else arrived.
I wrapped up warm, with everything that I had in my small rucsac, as it was well below freezing. The water in my bottle had started to turn to ice, and was painfully cold to drink, but I had worked up a bit of a thirst.
I sat alone on the very top of Kala Pathar, and watched the sunny patch slowly creep down the mountain above me, towards where I sat shivering, as the sun rose slowly behind Everest to the east of me. Seeing the huge mountain so spectacularly silhouetted, and looking down on Base Camp far below was one of the most outstanding moments of my adventures over the past two years.
Others arrived at the top, and finally the sun reached us and warmed us up quite quickly. The best photo opportunity was now gone once the sun appeared, so we headed down for breakfast at Gorak Shep, packed our bags, and began the long descent back to civilisation.
We headed down the beautiful Khumbu Valley for about 5 hours, and stopped at a nice little tea-house all on it's own at a place called Orsho. The clouds had been building steadily throughout the day, and we were very lucky to make it to our accomodation just before the skies opened, and it poured down.
Day 11 - Orsho (13,547 ft) - Tengboche (12,664 ft) - Namche Bazar (11,286 ft)
For the first time in days we laid in until 7am, and I had the best night's sleep. The thin air at higher altitudes can make sleep difficult, and at more than 3,000 feet lower than Gorak Shep, the denser air in Orsho meant that I had an untroubled nine hours sleep. Henry did even better, asleep before me, and still asleep when I woke.
Again the morning was bright and clear, despite the rain the day before, and we headed on down the spectacular valley. We arrived mid-morning at Tengboche, which is a beautiful little place with an amazing monastery. Apparently the original monastery burned down in the 1990's but was re-build with the help of Edmund Hillary's Himalaya Foundation.
After lunch we decided to detour to Khumjung, where more of Sir Edmund's legacy can be found at the school he helped build, documented in his book "Schoolhouse in the Clouds". It was very atmospheric to visit, as once again by mid-afternoon the clouds had started to build again, and were swirling dramatically just above the school.
We made a final stop at the impressive Everest View Hotel, where there was no view at all, unfortunately, because of the now thick cloud cover. A long downhill toil from there brought us back to Namche Bazar at last. Just one more day of trekking to get back to Lukla.
The tea-house in Namche, which on the way up seemed so basic, now felt like The Ritz. It is such luxury to have modern toilet facilities, and water that comes out of a tap, not just scooped out of a bucket. And best of all... a shower, with real hot water! It's the first shower I have had since we left here over a week ago, and it was FANTASTIC!
It is quite hard to explain how basic and difficult everything is on the long trek, how cold it can be every evening, and how little there is in the way of modern facilities that are so often taken for granted. We have pretty much been in the same clothes for most of the last week or so, washing socks and shirts when the chance presents itself, and hoping to get them dry again before they are needed too badly.
But what a truly incredible experience the whole trip has been, I wouldn't change a minute of it.
Surya woke us at ten past four in the morning, and we were out and climbing by 4.45am, just as it was beginning to get light. For Surya and I, this was our second slog up Kala Pathar in less than 24 hours. Once again we managed a steady pace, and passed a few people who had started before us.
About half way up, Henry stopped to take some photos, and I continued my steady plod, increacing my pace as I approached the summit, keen to get there before the sun appeared from behind Everest. I climbed the last twenty minutes or so as hard as I could, puffing and panting hard in the thin air above 18,000 feet. I must have been going pretty well, as I had at least ten minutes on my own on the summit before anyone else arrived.
I wrapped up warm, with everything that I had in my small rucsac, as it was well below freezing. The water in my bottle had started to turn to ice, and was painfully cold to drink, but I had worked up a bit of a thirst.
I sat alone on the very top of Kala Pathar, and watched the sunny patch slowly creep down the mountain above me, towards where I sat shivering, as the sun rose slowly behind Everest to the east of me. Seeing the huge mountain so spectacularly silhouetted, and looking down on Base Camp far below was one of the most outstanding moments of my adventures over the past two years.
Others arrived at the top, and finally the sun reached us and warmed us up quite quickly. The best photo opportunity was now gone once the sun appeared, so we headed down for breakfast at Gorak Shep, packed our bags, and began the long descent back to civilisation.
We headed down the beautiful Khumbu Valley for about 5 hours, and stopped at a nice little tea-house all on it's own at a place called Orsho. The clouds had been building steadily throughout the day, and we were very lucky to make it to our accomodation just before the skies opened, and it poured down.
Day 11 - Orsho (13,547 ft) - Tengboche (12,664 ft) - Namche Bazar (11,286 ft)
For the first time in days we laid in until 7am, and I had the best night's sleep. The thin air at higher altitudes can make sleep difficult, and at more than 3,000 feet lower than Gorak Shep, the denser air in Orsho meant that I had an untroubled nine hours sleep. Henry did even better, asleep before me, and still asleep when I woke.
Again the morning was bright and clear, despite the rain the day before, and we headed on down the spectacular valley. We arrived mid-morning at Tengboche, which is a beautiful little place with an amazing monastery. Apparently the original monastery burned down in the 1990's but was re-build with the help of Edmund Hillary's Himalaya Foundation.
After lunch we decided to detour to Khumjung, where more of Sir Edmund's legacy can be found at the school he helped build, documented in his book "Schoolhouse in the Clouds". It was very atmospheric to visit, as once again by mid-afternoon the clouds had started to build again, and were swirling dramatically just above the school.
We made a final stop at the impressive Everest View Hotel, where there was no view at all, unfortunately, because of the now thick cloud cover. A long downhill toil from there brought us back to Namche Bazar at last. Just one more day of trekking to get back to Lukla.
The tea-house in Namche, which on the way up seemed so basic, now felt like The Ritz. It is such luxury to have modern toilet facilities, and water that comes out of a tap, not just scooped out of a bucket. And best of all... a shower, with real hot water! It's the first shower I have had since we left here over a week ago, and it was FANTASTIC!
It is quite hard to explain how basic and difficult everything is on the long trek, how cold it can be every evening, and how little there is in the way of modern facilities that are so often taken for granted. We have pretty much been in the same clothes for most of the last week or so, washing socks and shirts when the chance presents itself, and hoping to get them dry again before they are needed too badly.
But what a truly incredible experience the whole trip has been, I wouldn't change a minute of it.
Friday, April 16, 2010
Goal 83 - "Because it's there..."
Day 9 - Labouche (16,108 ft) - Gorak Shep (16,863 ft) - Everest Base Camp (17,650 ft) - Gorak Shep (16,863 ft) - Kala Pathar (18,208 ft) - Gorak Shep (16,863 ft)
Breakfast was delayed slightly, so we didn't get away until 6.30am, and arrived at Gorak Shep a couple of hours later. This really is the last settlement before Base Camp, and I have read about this place in so many mountaineering books. There was an air of unreality about finally reaching this place. On the walk I thought of all the famous footsteps that I was following. Mallory and Irvine came this way, as did Hillary and Tensing, and hundreds of other climbing greats since then.
We left as much gear as we could at the Snowland Highest Inn, which would be our accomodation for the night, at almost 17,000 feet. With much lighter packs for the rest of the day we set off for our ultimate goal, Everest Base Camp.
It took less than two hours to reach, and I was feeling much fitter and healthier than the previous day. Unfortunately it was Henry's turn to be feeling a bit under-the-weather, and Surya and I waited by the Base Camp overlook area for Henry and Deepak to arrive.
I was really keen to go down into the camp itself, and see the awesome Khumbu Icefall from it's base. Henry elected to stay on the "city limits" with Deepak, and Surya and I headed down into camp. The atmosphere was wonderful. There was a group of singing and dancing sherpas, a photo exhibition in one tent, and all sorts of preparations going on.
I soaked up as much atmosphere as I could, and took many pictures of the stunning icefall. It all looks very imposing, and people up there just looked like tiny dots.
Eventually we headed back to collect Henry and Deepak, and began the journey back to Gorak Shep.
We had wondered about the possibility of climbing Kala Pathar, which offers some incredible views of the whole valley, but Henry wasn't feeling up to it. I was still feeling good, and decided I would tackle the climb, which ascends to well over 18,000 feet. Surya kindly volunteered to come along with me.
It was a real slog, as we had already had a long six-hour day, but we climbed steadily and slowly. By the last third of the climb I was starting to fade a little, and was disappointed that the clouds were building fast. We really needed to be up there a couple of hours earlier. It got colder towards the summit, and I put on all the clothes I had with me as we finally reached the wind-swept peak.
The view was clouded over, but we could see one gap in the clouds about to pass over, and with a few others at the summit, waited for five minutes, and were rewarded with a brief, stunning view of Everest.
We headed down quickly, arriving back at Gorak Shep at around 3pm, after a nine-hour day, just as the snow began to fall. Luke warm coffee never tasted so good!
This has been an absolutely incredible goal to achieve, and has probably been one of the most physically demanding things I have ever done. In terms of sustained effort it even beats the "7 Peaks in 7 Days" challenge in August last year. (Sorry Val!)
I am incredibly proud of what I have achieved, and although I appreciate that thousands of other trekkers achieve the same thing each year, I am pretty sure they are all very proud too.
My thanks for assistance on this goal go to Kim, who introduced me to Niraj at Himalayan Encounters, to Niraj himself for helping me to arrange everything, to Henry for being a wonderful fellow trekker, and of course, our fantastic guides, Deepak and Surya, and our amazing porter, Sudip.
Breakfast was delayed slightly, so we didn't get away until 6.30am, and arrived at Gorak Shep a couple of hours later. This really is the last settlement before Base Camp, and I have read about this place in so many mountaineering books. There was an air of unreality about finally reaching this place. On the walk I thought of all the famous footsteps that I was following. Mallory and Irvine came this way, as did Hillary and Tensing, and hundreds of other climbing greats since then.
We left as much gear as we could at the Snowland Highest Inn, which would be our accomodation for the night, at almost 17,000 feet. With much lighter packs for the rest of the day we set off for our ultimate goal, Everest Base Camp.
It took less than two hours to reach, and I was feeling much fitter and healthier than the previous day. Unfortunately it was Henry's turn to be feeling a bit under-the-weather, and Surya and I waited by the Base Camp overlook area for Henry and Deepak to arrive.
I was really keen to go down into the camp itself, and see the awesome Khumbu Icefall from it's base. Henry elected to stay on the "city limits" with Deepak, and Surya and I headed down into camp. The atmosphere was wonderful. There was a group of singing and dancing sherpas, a photo exhibition in one tent, and all sorts of preparations going on.
I soaked up as much atmosphere as I could, and took many pictures of the stunning icefall. It all looks very imposing, and people up there just looked like tiny dots.
Eventually we headed back to collect Henry and Deepak, and began the journey back to Gorak Shep.
We had wondered about the possibility of climbing Kala Pathar, which offers some incredible views of the whole valley, but Henry wasn't feeling up to it. I was still feeling good, and decided I would tackle the climb, which ascends to well over 18,000 feet. Surya kindly volunteered to come along with me.
It was a real slog, as we had already had a long six-hour day, but we climbed steadily and slowly. By the last third of the climb I was starting to fade a little, and was disappointed that the clouds were building fast. We really needed to be up there a couple of hours earlier. It got colder towards the summit, and I put on all the clothes I had with me as we finally reached the wind-swept peak.
The view was clouded over, but we could see one gap in the clouds about to pass over, and with a few others at the summit, waited for five minutes, and were rewarded with a brief, stunning view of Everest.
We headed down quickly, arriving back at Gorak Shep at around 3pm, after a nine-hour day, just as the snow began to fall. Luke warm coffee never tasted so good!
This has been an absolutely incredible goal to achieve, and has probably been one of the most physically demanding things I have ever done. In terms of sustained effort it even beats the "7 Peaks in 7 Days" challenge in August last year. (Sorry Val!)
I am incredibly proud of what I have achieved, and although I appreciate that thousands of other trekkers achieve the same thing each year, I am pretty sure they are all very proud too.
My thanks for assistance on this goal go to Kim, who introduced me to Niraj at Himalayan Encounters, to Niraj himself for helping me to arrange everything, to Henry for being a wonderful fellow trekker, and of course, our fantastic guides, Deepak and Surya, and our amazing porter, Sudip.
Thursday, April 15, 2010
Himalayan heights.
Day 6 - Gokyo Lakes
After a long day the previous day, and a bit of a re-think in the evening, we decided to put the extra day we had created to good use. Rather than attempting the steep Gokyo Ri climb, which involved a 5.30am start, Henry suggested an easier trek further up the Gokyo Valley, to the fourth and fifth lakes, where the guidebook suggested that there were some impressive views of Everest.
I didn't sleep too well overnight, and woke in the morning with a headache, and feeling a bit of the familiar altitude sickness. I had an altitude tablet, and a couple of headache pills, and felt a bit better after breakfast.
It had snowed overnight, and the walk up the valley was beautiful. We walked at over 16,000 feet for a couple of hours and the views at the end were well worth it.
We we took many photos of Everest rising magnificently in the distance. In this panorama of three pictures below, Everest is in the picture on the right, haloed by cloud, second peak from the right-hand edge.
On the way back down though, fatigue kicked in, and I started feeling pretty rough. It was a long, tiring slog back to Gokyo, and by the time we reached our accomodation we had spent around 5 hours at over 16,000 feet. After a bowl of soup I fell asleep for a couple of hours in the afternoon. I was pretty certain that I would be fine the next day, and just had the last bit of acclimatisation to do, as well as needing a good night's rest.
I felt much better by dinnertime, and ate well, followed by a lively game of cards with our guides. I still got a pretty early night as we planned to be up at 5am in the morning for the challenging climb up Gokyo Ri.
Day 7 - Gokyo Ri (17,584 ft) and Gokyo (15,750 ft) - Thagnak (15,560 ft)
Once again it snowed overnight, but dawned crystal clear in the morning. We were up at 5am, and on the path by 5.30. The start of the climb up Gokyo Ri was only a few minutes from the door of our accomodation, and before long we were labouring up a two-hour long trudge to the top of the steep hill. I always find it easier to go very slow and steady, and not stop at all, and our group of four made good progress.
We passed a couple of others who had started before us, and about two-thirds of the way up I was feeling great. I had slept well, had no sign of altitude problems, and was feeling strong again. I maintained my steady pace, and was surprised to be the first of our group to the top - very much different to the previous day, when I had been the one struggling badly.
The view was incredible! Far below you could see Gokyo on the edge of the third lake, with the huge Ngozumpa Glacier running just behind the tiny settlement. Beyond that mountains towered, and in the background Everest itself was highlighted in a halo of cloud.
The summit of Gokyo Ri was strung with Buddhist prayer flags, and there was hardly a breath of wind. It really was a magnificent location, and well worth the two hours of effort to get there.
The journey down only took an hour or so, and back at the tea-house Henry and I prepared to do something that our guides were convinced we had only been joking about.
In our swimming shorts, towels slung over our shoulders, we headed down to the lake, and in the only way I imagine it is possible to do, we plunged in. It was shockingly cold, but I swam out a little before returning to shore. Henry was already back out, but to my amazement dived in for a second dip. Hot coffee and a big breakfast slowly warmed us afterwards. The locals were amazed - I don't think they had ever seen anything like it!!
Once warmed and fed, we packed our bags, and set off on what was supposed to be the next day's itinerary, trekking out the back of Gokyo and onto the glacier itself. This was quite surreal, as it is mainly rock-covered, but every now-and-then you can see walls of ice and frozen pools. All around there are rocks rolling, and sounds of movement. Quite incredible.
Two hours took us across the glacier, and to the tiny collection of buildings at Thagnak, where we settled in for the remainder of the afternoon. Despite fitting in the extra day's side trip to Gokyo Lakes, we are still a day ahead of schedule!
I washed some clothes in a little stream nearby, surrounded by five or six completely uninterested yak. The sun was still out, and I was looking forward to fresh socks for the next day's challenging trek over the Cho La Pass.
Day 8 - Thagnak (15,560 ft) - Cho La Pass (17,486 ft) - Dzonglha (15,846 ft) - Labouche (16,108 ft)
Another 5am start meant we were on the trail by 6am, on what was going to be one of the tougher days for me again. It was a long slow haul up the climb towards the pass leading over to the Khumbu Valley, but we seemed to do well, and passed a few groups on the way that had started before us. It took about three hours to reach the pass itself, and the view was well worth the effort. A huge wall of snow lead upwards to a peak on our right, and ahead was a magnificent ice fall.
We had a bit to eat in the sun, and then headed down over ice fields, and then rocky paths, arriving at Dhzonglha another two hours later. Accomodation there was limited, but we would be able to get a room, Deepak told us. Henry, however, was keen to push on, and in spirit I agreed, but my body would have been quite happy to settle there for the rest of the afternoon.
However, push on we did, finally making it to Labouche by mid-afternoon. I found the last part of the day a real slog, and was glad to finally arrive and take a much needed break. The tea-house at Labouche was fairly basic, and Henry and I had to take turns in the tiny room to organise our gear.
Once again we had completed two days planned trekking in one day, and were now two days ahead of schedule.
An early dinner, a few games of cards and an early night were the order of the day, as once again we faced an early start in the morning, and a big day ahead.
After a long day the previous day, and a bit of a re-think in the evening, we decided to put the extra day we had created to good use. Rather than attempting the steep Gokyo Ri climb, which involved a 5.30am start, Henry suggested an easier trek further up the Gokyo Valley, to the fourth and fifth lakes, where the guidebook suggested that there were some impressive views of Everest.
I didn't sleep too well overnight, and woke in the morning with a headache, and feeling a bit of the familiar altitude sickness. I had an altitude tablet, and a couple of headache pills, and felt a bit better after breakfast.
It had snowed overnight, and the walk up the valley was beautiful. We walked at over 16,000 feet for a couple of hours and the views at the end were well worth it.
We we took many photos of Everest rising magnificently in the distance. In this panorama of three pictures below, Everest is in the picture on the right, haloed by cloud, second peak from the right-hand edge.
On the way back down though, fatigue kicked in, and I started feeling pretty rough. It was a long, tiring slog back to Gokyo, and by the time we reached our accomodation we had spent around 5 hours at over 16,000 feet. After a bowl of soup I fell asleep for a couple of hours in the afternoon. I was pretty certain that I would be fine the next day, and just had the last bit of acclimatisation to do, as well as needing a good night's rest.
I felt much better by dinnertime, and ate well, followed by a lively game of cards with our guides. I still got a pretty early night as we planned to be up at 5am in the morning for the challenging climb up Gokyo Ri.
Day 7 - Gokyo Ri (17,584 ft) and Gokyo (15,750 ft) - Thagnak (15,560 ft)
Once again it snowed overnight, but dawned crystal clear in the morning. We were up at 5am, and on the path by 5.30. The start of the climb up Gokyo Ri was only a few minutes from the door of our accomodation, and before long we were labouring up a two-hour long trudge to the top of the steep hill. I always find it easier to go very slow and steady, and not stop at all, and our group of four made good progress.
We passed a couple of others who had started before us, and about two-thirds of the way up I was feeling great. I had slept well, had no sign of altitude problems, and was feeling strong again. I maintained my steady pace, and was surprised to be the first of our group to the top - very much different to the previous day, when I had been the one struggling badly.
The view was incredible! Far below you could see Gokyo on the edge of the third lake, with the huge Ngozumpa Glacier running just behind the tiny settlement. Beyond that mountains towered, and in the background Everest itself was highlighted in a halo of cloud.
The summit of Gokyo Ri was strung with Buddhist prayer flags, and there was hardly a breath of wind. It really was a magnificent location, and well worth the two hours of effort to get there.
The journey down only took an hour or so, and back at the tea-house Henry and I prepared to do something that our guides were convinced we had only been joking about.
In our swimming shorts, towels slung over our shoulders, we headed down to the lake, and in the only way I imagine it is possible to do, we plunged in. It was shockingly cold, but I swam out a little before returning to shore. Henry was already back out, but to my amazement dived in for a second dip. Hot coffee and a big breakfast slowly warmed us afterwards. The locals were amazed - I don't think they had ever seen anything like it!!
Once warmed and fed, we packed our bags, and set off on what was supposed to be the next day's itinerary, trekking out the back of Gokyo and onto the glacier itself. This was quite surreal, as it is mainly rock-covered, but every now-and-then you can see walls of ice and frozen pools. All around there are rocks rolling, and sounds of movement. Quite incredible.
Two hours took us across the glacier, and to the tiny collection of buildings at Thagnak, where we settled in for the remainder of the afternoon. Despite fitting in the extra day's side trip to Gokyo Lakes, we are still a day ahead of schedule!
I washed some clothes in a little stream nearby, surrounded by five or six completely uninterested yak. The sun was still out, and I was looking forward to fresh socks for the next day's challenging trek over the Cho La Pass.
Day 8 - Thagnak (15,560 ft) - Cho La Pass (17,486 ft) - Dzonglha (15,846 ft) - Labouche (16,108 ft)
Another 5am start meant we were on the trail by 6am, on what was going to be one of the tougher days for me again. It was a long slow haul up the climb towards the pass leading over to the Khumbu Valley, but we seemed to do well, and passed a few groups on the way that had started before us. It took about three hours to reach the pass itself, and the view was well worth the effort. A huge wall of snow lead upwards to a peak on our right, and ahead was a magnificent ice fall.
We had a bit to eat in the sun, and then headed down over ice fields, and then rocky paths, arriving at Dhzonglha another two hours later. Accomodation there was limited, but we would be able to get a room, Deepak told us. Henry, however, was keen to push on, and in spirit I agreed, but my body would have been quite happy to settle there for the rest of the afternoon.
However, push on we did, finally making it to Labouche by mid-afternoon. I found the last part of the day a real slog, and was glad to finally arrive and take a much needed break. The tea-house at Labouche was fairly basic, and Henry and I had to take turns in the tiny room to organise our gear.
Once again we had completed two days planned trekking in one day, and were now two days ahead of schedule.
An early dinner, a few games of cards and an early night were the order of the day, as once again we faced an early start in the morning, and a big day ahead.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
